At 23 years old, L’Angelus at Club Street is one of the oldest French restaurants in Singapore amidst the ever-changing landscape of the food industy. It is owned by two French persons who source many of the ingredients used in the restaurant from Rungis, a suburb south of Paris, known to hold one of the largest wholesale food markets in the world.
There is a 3-course $68++ all-day set menu. A 3-course lunch starts from $28++. Signature dishes include petits pots d’escargots de Bourgogne, homemade pâté, and entrecôte steak. We were there for lunch.
For starters, there is an option of homemade chicken liver and pork pâté, but I chose the baked bone marrow (additional +$4). Bone marrow by itself is usually bland but L’Angelus smartly paired it with a delectable mushroom and ham sauce that brings out the buttery, fatty flavour of the bone marrow.
Spread the sauce and bone marrow on the grilled, buttered bread. The bread seems to be over-grilled so the dark parts are especially charred and bitter. Some people may not like it. But since I like charred things, this is great for it. But in the future, I suggest that they not over-grill it.
Options for the main course include an interesting crab brick, and their specialty, a steak frites. But I went for the duck breast (additional +$6). This is not done confit-style, that is, it is not soaked in oil and fried. The duck breast is pan-roasted. It turns out to be a little like steak, red at the edges and pink in the middle—delicious.
It comes with salsify, the first time I have eaten this root vegetable. It looks like ginseng but tastes like oyster. Not entirely sure if salsify goes with the duck breast but it is delicious.
For dessert, the creme brulee is nothing to speak about, good but ordinary. However, they smartly give a lot. If it’s ordinary, just give a lot to your customers and they will be satisfied. As it was, I was content with it.
Many people bring their dates here. My friend (a woman) has been brought here countless of times. It’s easy to see why. The service is discreet, non-intrusive, easy, and attentive. The decor speaks of an old world romance with a scary-looking monkey carved into the walls. In the afternoon, when the sun falls through the skylight composed of stained glass, there is a sort of magic.
Overall, I deem it to be a steady, homely, comforting restaurant. Nothing too out of line, nothing to surprise you, but it is reliable. We paid $142 for three persons or about $47 for one.
L’Angelus French Restaurant
85 Club Street Singapore 069453
t: +65 6225 6897
Lunch M-F 12pm-2.30pm
Dinner M-Sat 6pm-10.30pm
Price / value: 6/10
Decor / ambience: 7.5/10
You may be interested in…
–Restaurant Beurre, Bukit Pasoh: French Food with Singaporean Twist and Lots of Foie Gras and Truffle Oil
–Pixy Restaurant & Bar, Mohamed Sultan: Excellent Autumn Degustation by New Chef Nobu
–Le Bon Funk, Club Street: Natural Wine Bar with Fantastic Food by Ex Burnt Ends Chef
–So France, Duo Galleria: Fantastic French Bistro Comes With French Service
Written by Dr. A. Nathanael Ho.