Fratelli at Resorts World Sentosa is the latest restaurant to be opened by celebrity chefs. Fratelli means “brothers” in Italian, and the menu is created by brothers Enrico and Roberto Cerea of three Michelin-starred Da Vittorio in Lombardy, Italy. They visit Fratelli about 2-3 times a year to maintain the quality and refresh the menu. When they are not around, Chef de Cuisine Davide Bizzarri helms the kitchen.
As the name of the restaurant suggests, there are two areas to the restaurant: a casual area (pizzeria) and a cozy, homely, slightly more upscale setting (trattoria). You can order from both the Trattoria and Pizzeria menus, regardless of where you sit.
A 2-course lunch is very affordable at $25++, and 3-course at $32++. If you strike lottery, you can also go for the 4-course tasting menu at $88++. When you compare the tasting menu price to other restaurants, $88 is quite reasonable.
From the Pizzeria menu, the bianca pizza ($26) is the simplest and the best dish we had here. It’s foccacia using Japanese flour, freshly baked to a crisp, with Puglia’s soft burrata splat on it, acting like a base. It is then topped with 20-month parma ham “Pio Tosini” and arugula. It’s salty and creamy, counterpoised by the bitter veg. It’s so awesome because the ingredients are fantastic. In cooking, once you have excellent ingredients, it’s half the battle won.
From the Trattoria menu, for starters, the 150g pan-seared foie gras ($48) is good. Actually only 2 things can go wrong with foie gras. It can be overcooked, which will be rubbery, and inferior foie gras stinks like a wet dog. And the foie gras here doesn’t have the 2 issues.
In fact, I rather appreciate how a few strands of saffron, the most expensive spice in the world, sit on the goose liver. The apple-and-capsicum compote has a slight spiciness, which livens the foie gras.
The parmesan risotto is a fun performance piece. The risotto is finished off in a parmesan wheel, coating every grain evenly, and then adding veal jus and shaved truffle. It is slightly under-salted, and undercooked, hence harder than what al dente is supposed to be.
For the second plate, I usually say leave the pan-seared Atlantic cod ($42) alone. Serve it as it is without any additional sauces, because it’s such a delicate fish that any sauce may drown the milky flavor of the fish. But Fratelli has added many things, and still the dish works.
The cod is covered under a blanket of pulverized blend of capers, oregano, and squid ink. The fish then swims in a sea of saffron scented potato foam, with a drop of herb granita. (Actually I thought the granita could be more liberal, because the coldness of it is deliciously shocking, offsetting the heat of the cod.)
There are so many ingredients in the cod but each ingredient still possesses their own distinct character, that you can taste everyone of them and yet the fish still stands out as the focus; it doesn’t get cast aside and doesn’t become secondary. Culinary level 999 here.
The only thing I didn’t like in Fratelli is the deconstructed modern tiramisu ($18). I can’t taste any rum or coffee, the flavors are too mild, and deconstructed desserts are passe. I’d rather eat a good, old-fashioned tiramisu with bold flavors.
On the whole, the meal is quite enjoyable. There are some seriously smart combinations that work, and I rarely see such a high level of innovative mix-and-match elsewhere in Singapore.
For Pokemon Trainers, there is an added incentive to dine here: you will be in the middle of 4 pokestops. Time to use your Lure. I wish you many Ponyta, Pikachu, Lapras, and Snorlax.
Fratelli Trattoria and Pizzeria
Resorts World Sentosa, 8 Sentosa Gateway, Hotel Michael Level 2, Sentosa Island, Singapore 098269
T: +65 6577 6555 / +65 6577 6688
12pm-10.30pm, closed Tue, except PH
Overall rating: 3.563/5
Written by A. Nathanael Ho.