Brought to you by the same folks behind The Salted Plum, Pasta Supremo at Suntec is a new (Feb 2019) pop-up restaurant at Suntec City (until late 2020) offering unconventional pasta creations. Customers can select from 4 Haus Pastas or take matters into their own hands with the build-your-own pasta bowls and choose from unique sauces and toppings such as Burnt Miso Corn, Confit Garlic Prawns and Unagi.
The Spiced Supremo Chicken Skins ($6) is a good place to start. I think the whole reason why we deep-fry chicken is for its skin. This is very crispy and totally addictive. It’s not half as spicy as it looks. Just to make sure the seasoning is not clumping in places, you may want to pick up each piece, tap it once or twice before biting down.
I don’t know about you. When I eat wagyu, I do so to indulge in its fat and richness. Here, however, a sort of balance is sought. The 100 Day Grain Fed Fatty Wagyu ($15) is cooked sous vide then blowtorched & served with onions, fried shallots and pickles, presumably to counter the richness.
Of the “Stuff On Bread” selection, I like the Cheesy Cheese AF ($5) best. Trio of blue cheese, camembert and mozzarella. It’s got deep stinky flavour, smooth milkiness and it’s chewy.
The Bak Kwa Jam ($5) more or less defines the verve of this establishment. The jam is made from combining Haus Bacon and bak kwa. There is nothing subtle here. It’s at once sweet and salty and tastes a lot like childish rebellion: Like when mum said you’re not allowed to have bak kwa for dinner and finally you’re all grown up and nobody can stop you now.
The Mushroom & Black Truffle Cream ($3) reminds me of mushroom soup – not in a bad way. Creamy, with a nice truffle aroma.
The Avocado & Feta ($4.50) is not quite the regular avo-toast. Once again, instead of going for an all-out richness, the fat is balanced with the twist of lime and refreshing mint.
You get a choice of 3 fresh pastas: long, short and curly. They are made in-house daily and are “naturally coloured with ingredients such as egg yolk, blue pea flower, beetroot and activated charcoal”. I quote, from the press release. Frankly, the colours add more visual interest than actual flavour. But fresh definitely tastes better. There’s more bounce and satisfying bite.
You can say Supremo Porky Marinara ($15) is a classic tomato based sauce. Except it is extra, extra porky. You’re going to love it or hate it: Pork lard in the sauce, lard sprinkles. The single large meatball (made from combining pork with some beef) tastes familiar but strange at the same time. It’s chunky with a little textural surprise of crunchy water chestnut bits. It’s going to make you sit up and wonder.
I would rename Carbonara, But Not Really ($18) to Carbonara, Not At All. It’s a cream based sauce made from shimeiji, button and shiitake and topped with shavings of 24-month aged hard cheese (Parmigiano Reggiano). The sauce is rich and the curls of the pasta carry it nicely. The appearance of Haus Bacon here feels more like an afterthought and tastes a lot like the slices of pork belly char siew that typically accompany Ramen.
The Prawn Olio Olio ($20) is a Mala-inspired creation with Sichuan peppers taking centrestage over garlic. It’s very aromatic and only slightly tingly on the tongue. Seasoned Mala addicts will find no challenge here. I’m not a fan of the garlic prawns. They don’t carry much flavour and crunch in that artificial way that frozen prawns do. The Lup Cheong crumble (Chinese sausage) kind of makes up for it. The scatterings of Tobiko not only add texture but also pops of colour, rendering this the most insta-worthy item on the menu.
The Vege Wege Pasta ($22) is more than a token vegetarian menu option. It’s my favourite of the lot. It features the Asian Pesto where instead of pine nuts, candlenuts are used, in combination with Thai herbs such as basil, lime leaves, and lemongrass for a citrusy bouquet. The effect is light, bright and chewy with the assorted mushrooms. There’s a surprising level of umami coming from the miso, aged hard cheese and seasoned breadcrumbs. The best part is being able to eat it all with just a spoon.
I didn’t eat enough of the Passion Fruit Kaffir Tart ($6) to formulate an opinion beyond that it’s too sweet. All my attention went to the Pistachio Creme ($6). It’s creme brûlée but better because instead of just a burnt sugar layer, you get this tasty pistachio brittle that’s perfectly nutty and crunchy. My only gripe is that it’s so small.
Nothing at Pasta Supremo is straightforward. This will frustrate some and delight others. Come here if you like freshly made pasta and if you’re up for a little comfort food but with a twist. If you’re the sort of rebel who enjoys cookies for breakfast and perhaps bak kwa for dinner, this is just the place for you. I think couples should come, order sides, split a pasta and finish with their own individual portions of that yummy Pistachio creme. Trust me. You won’t want to share.
Suntec Convention Centre (West Wing) #01-365, 3 Temasek Boulevard #01-365 Singapore 038983
tel: +65 6909 8138
You may be interested in…
–Pastaria Abate, Tanjong Pagar: Handmade Goodness is a Daily Affair
–At the Myo, Everton Park: Outstanding Cafe Serving Rice and Pastas With Local Flavors
–Pasta Brava, Tanjong Pagar
–Bee’s Knees @ The Garage, Botanic Gardens: Find a Winning Formula for Cafes, then Cut and Paste
Written by Pierre Goh.