Godmama at Funan Mall serves Modern Peranakan food.
Co-owner Christina Keilthy left her corporate job to join the F&B industry because she wanted to preserve the delicious legacy of her Godma’s and Ma’s Egg Skin Popiah, a dish she’d had the fortune of enjoying since childhood. Godmama grew into its current concept when she found fellow Peranakans in co-owner Derrick Chew and head chef Frederic Goh.
When we visited the restaurant on a weekend, they only had the brunch menu with modern interpretation. It’s a pity because we wanted traditional communal Peranakan food.
Actually, I don’t see why they couldn’t serve brunch alongside the traditional dishes because the basic materials are similar. Options are always great.
For starters, the ngoh hiang ($11.90, 7 pieces) or pork-and-prawn roll with bits of water chestnut, is a traditional Peranakan dish that comes with a sweet dipping sauce. It’s ok. It’s up to standard, crispy, crunchy, but not particularly outstanding.
The Nyonya fried wings ($10.90) come with half a bone like Thai style wings. While this makes for easy eating, it also runs the risk of being dry with sparing meat. Can’t really taste the Nyonya marinade. It comes with an interesting belachan mayo.
Ayam Buah Keluak Burger ($21.90): The grilled chicken is marinated with sambal buah keluak which is like a spicy earthiness, almost like a rub or a rempah. The chicken is dry.
The Babi Assam baked eggs ($17.90), their signature, is a ramekin of pork belly and baked eggs stewed in tamarind sauce. The eggs are fully cooked, not runny. Some of the pork belly pieces are tough, the rest are not tender. Tastewise, it is nice.
They use beef shin for their beef rendang ($16.90) and it is tender and aromatic. They pair the beef rendang with a delicious coconut rice, with some grains stained with butterfly peaflower blue, characteristic of Peranakan cuisine.
Also delicious is the buah keluak pasta ($19.90) with this wonderful earthiness and pungency from the black nut. It comes with minced beef, but I wonder if it would be better with minced pork.
This gingerflower and lychee sorbet ($10.90), with peanut crumble and lime jelly, is an exclusive by local creamery Apiary. It is weird, it tastes like laksa. Not bad, but just very weird.
They Asianised the sticky red date pudding ($9.90) by using red dates and glazed it with long’an tea. It is very delicious that we were snatching for it.
We paid $156 for four persons. The food is not bad but it will not be my first choice when I want to eat Peranakan food.
Funan Mall #04-07, 107 North Bridge Road Singapore 179105
tel: +65 6970 0828
Mon-Fri: 11am – 10pm
Sat-Sun: 10am – 10pm
Price / value: 6.5/10
Decor / ambience: 6.5/10
You may be interested in…
–Indigo Blue Kitchen, Shaw Centre Orchard: Peranakan Restaurant by Les Amis
–Folklore, Beach Road: Eurasian-Peranakan Food that is Different from the Rest
–Whole Earth, Tanjong Pagar: VERY SMELLY, Expensive But Excellent Food at the Only Vegetarian Restaurant to Be Awarded by the Michelin Guide
–National Kitchen, National Gallery: Michelin Stars for Singapore’s National Treasure, Peranakan Chef Violet Oon?
Written by Dr. A. Nathanael Ho.